“LiPo Ready” – what does this even mean?

In my experience, any gun is LiPo ready – it’s just a matter of how long the gun will survive running a LiPo. In stock form, most guns run extremely reliably on 7.4V LiPo 15C batteries for very long periods of time. So long as you’ve got the right connector (or adapter) to hook up your battery to your gun, you can run a 7.4V LiPo.

When you start getting into 11.1V LiPo’s, you are putting more voltage into your gun – more voltage equals quicker trigger response and a higher rate of fire. Both of these result in an increased rate of wear on your internals.

To be honest, I’ve seen guns advertised as being “LiPo Ready” fail within a couple hundred rounds, out of the box. Pistons strip, gears go, bearings blow out. With some simple upgrades (shimming, gears, piston, etc) and good shimming, your gun can be better than what some Airsoft retailers call “LiPo Ready.” I’ve heard some die-hard consumers declare that the term “LiPo Ready” means beefed up internals – but honestly, I’ve yet to find me an AEG gearbox that can take whatever I can throw at it. Others claim that this means switch assemblies that don’t burn out… There are two basic solutions to this – install a MOSFET, or use a 15C or lower discharge rate (C) LiPo.

Another option I’m currently testing is utilizing a VFC switch assembly – apparently these last much longer on higher discharge rate batteries (i.e. Lithium Polymer battery packs). I’ve seen burnt-out KWA switch assemblies before and thus I don’t trust those, irregardless of the statements KWA may make about their AEG’s being able to take a LiPo with no problems (I write this off as KWA having excellent marketing and are thus able to cover up many of their products flaws… like their GBB/GBBR hop up unit design).

I’m currently using FireFox 11.1V 1100 MaH 15C and Firefox 11.1V 1200 MaH 20C, both in “stick” form, as my main buffer tube LiPo batteries. I have to replace my SHS switch assembly in my KA M4A1 once every 10k-20k rounds fired on semi-auto (approximately 2-4 months). Is my King Arms M4A1 advertised as being “LiPo Ready?” Hell no.

So all in all, what do I think “LiPo Ready” means? It doesn’t mean anything; that term is just a marketing gimmick. Remember this – just because it says “LiPo Ready” in the ad, doesn’t mean that it won’t blow up on you. Conversely, because it doesn’t mention “LiPo Ready” in the product information, it doesn’t mean that the gun will break down if you put a LiPo in it. </rant>

-juicy

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3 responses to ““LiPo Ready” – what does this even mean?

  • Southpaw

    Agreed. My “lipo ready” VFC SCAR-L had the piston strip I believe it was 3 times within my first 2 months of gaming it, and all while using a 9.6V NiMH battery! So just because it says it can do this or that, doesn’t mean it always will.

  • overhoppers

    @ Southpaw: That’s just because VFC clear polycarb pistons are quite possibly the worst pistons ever. I’ve had them strip on the first day – once on my SPR and once on my SCAR-L.

    Go with a Guarder, they’re currently my brand of choice for pistons. 🙂

    -dizzy

  • Southpaw

    Yup, I replaced them with a Guarder Piston and Piston Head and haven’t had a problem in maybe 8 or 9 months (knock on wood). Highly recommend Guarder pistons to anybody using a VFC gun, even if it hasn’thad problems yet.

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