So in my recent post I showed off the new TM VSR-10 G-Spec I picked up from a local shop. As I said before, I either go all in or not at all. So below is a breakdown of where I picked up my parts, the upgrades parts I picked up and my experience thus far with installing these upgrades and testing.
The retailer – X-Fire.org
So when searching for parts the one issue I ran into immediately was sourcing all my parts from one retailer. I wanted to be able to order all of my parts in one purchase and ideally not have to pay shipping on multiple shipments from multiple retailers. At first I was looking at acquiring Action Army parts due to the good reviews on Airsoftsniperforum.com, however getting all of the parts from one place proved difficult. So I started looking at PDI and found X-Fire.org, PDI’s international online retail site. While PDI comes at a premium price, the parts are high quality and I could order everything I need in one go.
X-Fire.org has an odd order and purchase process but my package was delivered to me within a week from Japan which is amazing.
Upon opening the box, everything was wrapped in newspaper and bubble wrap to prevent the parts from shaking around in transit, good sign.
After removing the newsprint and bubble wrap I finally had all of the upgrade parts I spent far too much money on.
Here is a breakdown of all of the upgrade parts I picked up:
- PDI Precision Cylinder Set HD (Cylinder, Cylinder Head, Spring Guide)
- PDI VSR-10 Spring rated at 455 FPS
- PDI VSR-10 Zero Trigger
- PDI V2 Hop Up Chamber
- PDI W-Hold Hop Up Bucking
- PDI VSR-10 6.01mm – 303mm Inner Barrel
- PDI VSR-10 G-Spec Barrel Spacers
PDI everything. My intent with this build was to do accomplish multiple things
- Durability -> From most of my research as soon as you swap the stock TM spring (300 fps) to a higher FPS one its highly recommended you upgrade your trigger unit as the stock sears usually cannot handle the stress. As the sears get worn down it won’t catch the piston resulting in the inability to either lock back the bolt or slam firing. To increase my gun’s durability I picked up the PDI Zero Trigger unit. The entire trigger unit is made of high end alloys. The outer shell is made of Duralumin (aluminum composition) and the inner components are made from Carbon steel. Everything in the trigger unit is CNC machined and quality tested to ensure everything is up to PDI code. So this should last me a life time. One thing to note is that the trigger unit comes with the 90 degree piston end. When installing the trigger unit, you will also have to make this swap on the piston so it will catch on the trigger correctly.
2. Increased range/accuracy -> To improve the accuracy and range of the gun I picked up multiple items; the 455 fps spring, the PDI V2 Hop up Chamber, PDI W-Hold bucking and PDI 6.01mm – 303mm Inner Barrel. There are one major thing to note about this setup. The PDI V2 Hop up uses AEG style barrel windows, so if you are looking at picking one up you will need an AEG barrel and an AEG hop up bucking, not the standard VSR style. The PDI Hop up is interesting as it actually has two separate hop-up arms, one for the left and right side. This is to allow fine tuning adjustments on the hop up so if a shot is hooking in a direction to can adjust it. I should also clarify the spring wasn’t directly acquired for range. Increasing FPS isn’t the best way to increase range, however my plan is to use heavy weight bbs 0.36-0.40 gram bbs. So I needed to get some extra power to push the bbs.
3. Consistency -> For increased consistency I picked up the PDI Cylinder HD set. The stock TM cylinder set was fairly consistent, but to ensure parts compatibility I picked up the PDI set. When you go to to the X-Fire site and look at all of their options for cylinders, you will be overwhelmed. It took me a few hour to understand the difference in the sets which I’ll try to explain below
- The HD Set is your entry level piston, the focus of it is high durability and low cost
- The VC Set is focused on creating a vacuum in your cylinder and eliminating any negative pressure between the barrel and cylinder set that would impact your shot.
- The Palsonite version as I understand is a different material. The cylinder will be incredibly smooth and abrasion resistant resulting in a smooth bolt pull as well as a smoother ride for the piston after the trigger is pulled.
- Lastly the Compo set utilizes a different material for the piston, all delrin. This is an incredibly light weight set with reduced sound when the piston impacts the cylinder head.
So before I get into the issues I’ve run into already with the upgrades, I should say that I expected this. Bolt Action Rifles are new to me so it’s a learning process, some of these mistakes are rookie mistakes but I’m learning how these things click.
Installation and swapping of all of these parts was simple, there are tons of tutorials online and honestly compared to disassembly/assembling AEGs, these are super simple. So here’s where I’ve hit headaches. To be specific with one component.
- The PDI V2 Hop Up unit
- This is a cool hop up unit, however I am not a fan of how you adjust the hop on this unit. It requires you to use a tiny allen key to adjust the left and right screws to raise the arms. Clockwise reduces hop, counter clockwise increases it. The allen key it comes with is tiny, super tiny. So when you are adjusting the hop, you can’t get a full rotation in because they can’t clear the magwell. So instead I’m ordering a long key so I can clear that.
- On the topic of the screws, one of the first major issues I encountered which also almost destroyed the cylinder head and hop up unit itself was the screws. When increasing the hop on the unit you can actually end up backing out the screws far enough that they expose themselves in the area when the cylinder head connects with the hop up unit. So upon pushing the bolt forward two things can happen 1) you scratch the shit out of your cylinder on one of these screws or 2) your cylinder head will be jammed in the hop up unit. Because of the location of the screws, there is no easy way to know what the “max” level of hop is prior to the screws exposing themselves in the unit.
- The TM Stock Outer Barrel
- So this wasn’t a major issue, but a headache. So when disassembling and reassembling the gun for the first few times I noticed that the coating applied to the outer barrel was also applied to the threaded portion that screws into the receiver. When reassembling the gun for the first time the coating on the threads any began scratching/scraping off. It didn’t damage the threads, but each time it required me to unscrew it and clean out all the receiver and outer barrel.
So that’s my rundown and rant of the upgrades I’ve done so far. I’m still in the early stages of tuning the rifle so I’ll do another post in the future about the performance of the rifle.
Thanks for reading!