My King Arms Colt M4 has been one of my most trusted AEG primaries over the past three years. Over it’s life I’ve given it different paint jobs with different patterns, I’ve tossed a variety of internals and external parts on it as needed but sometimes you need to reevaluate an AEGs purpose in your inventory and either refit it or sell it.
Hit the link to see how I gave an old gun new life.
I went to play airsoft for the first time in months. While I can say that I’m disappointed that the level of play out there has continued to degrade since I last played, at least I now know that I still remember how to run & gun (while still abiding to the best airsoft advice I’ve ever gotten: don’t die). Racked up kills all day with Optix – up until he took an uncontrolled burst of full auto bleeders to the face at close range and we called it quits. Reminder to myself: maybe I should start wearing mesh face protection that everyone else seems to be wearing nowadays.
Highlight from this loadout:
Tokyo Marui Next Gen HK416 “DEVGRU” AEG, near complete upgrades (waiting for a couple of Prometheus parts in the mail)
Externals: HAO SMR for Marui, G&P DBAL-A2, Element M600U/Surefire Z68 direct attached, Element Tangodown vert grip, mystery solar powered micro red dot, BFG Two Point Sling, CTR stock cut for wiring to TMC GPS pouch for 11.1V Lipo
Internals: BTC Specter, “frankentorque” custom motor, mix of Prometheus/Magic Box/Army compression and drivetrain upgrade parts, mystery spring for equivalent muzzle velocity to M120, Prometheus ASH 6.05 285mm, A Plus old-gen Bucking & Modify Flat Nub
And may I say that it performed wonderfully today, even on hop-up set a number of clicks below a relatively flat trajectory because I forgot to set it this morning – and this is before the whole build is even completely done. I might actually be onto something for PTW like performance (without the expense to keep it running) here. The “recoil” mechanism’s novelty has long since worn off – but the performance of a modded Next Gen still puts a smile on my face.
My Glock 17 has operated almost perfectly since I initially received it close to two years ago. Out of the box, you can’t beat the performance of a TM Glock. But despite this initial perfection, there’s always that voice in the back of your head telling you it can perform better.
So onto what I’ve done to push performance and durability on my TM Glock 17.
The fix for all your VFC hop-related issues.
(Update July 28th, 2015: I took the SCAR-L with above Guarder two-piece hop up and it functioned flawlessly in about two midcaps’ worth of testing on the field in both semi and full-auto. Consistency was solid and I was actually quite impressed with the range, although this could be attributed to the Maple Leaf 70 degree bucking and tightbore as well. Either way, it worked flawlessly, and seems so far to be an effective fix.)
Perhaps against my better judgement, I accepted a VFC SCAR-L in a trade. I absolutely love the SCAR platform for its handling and aesthetics, but completely abhor VFC’s SCAR for a single reason – the terrible, terrible, terrible hop unit design. It is made of poor quality plastic (leading to sheared hop adjustment wheels), it’s a bit too tight in diameter and thus only reliably accepts VFC hop rubbers, the hop up arm is shorter than standard and thus aftermarket hop nubs/rubbers aren’t nearly as effective in it, and worst of all, it is proprietary. Or so I thought.
Some internet sleuthing revealed that old-school two piece V2 M4 hop up units have been tried and tested in the VFC SCAR with good results. I’m kind of angry at myself for not thinking of it sooner – two piece hop units, like the VFC SCAR hop, are open ended at the bottom, allowing for the lower receiver to swing out during disassembly. Could it work? Could this be the answer to all my VFC SCAR-related problems, and make a solid, reliable platform out of a piece of junk?
The answer so far is: Yes. Read more after the break.
I’m bringing back the magwell grip, goddammit.
Having gamed my TM HK416D Next Gen Recoil Shock AEG three times now, I feel that I can give a pretty solid review of its performance in its stock form. Note that while I’ll be focusing on the 416D, the same can be applied for most of TM’s Next-Gen line. Also note that this is for the stock, out of the box performance; these platforms are capable of some mighty impressive things once upgraded (which, admittedly, is something that’s still just a little bit out of my range of skill as an airsoft gunsmith, but also something I’m trying to work on).
- That legendary Tokyo Marui consistency and accuracy is indeed a thing, and yes, it lives up to the hype – particularly in certain CQB situations where consistency and accuracy take precedence over range. I was able to place precise shots at people’s backs, knees, shoulders, or other parts that were just barely sticking out over cover. With a zeroed in optic (I used an Eotech replica), you can rest assured that your next BB is going exactly where you want it to.
- In an outdoor environment with longer engagement distances, stock TM guns, while remaining competitive, will not be as dominant as say, a tuned PTW or Version 2 build. You won’t feel outgunned, but you might feel outranged; either way, you will still remain competitive. This says more about the quality of a stock TM AEG than it does about its weaknesses.
- You can’t trigger spam the thing. I used the 416D mainly in semi-only CQB situations and we all know there are some moments in CQB when you wanna spam that trigger as fast as you possibly can, Time Crisis-style. Unfortunately, the trigger response is only adequate (thanks mostly to the inefficient proprietary batteries); coupled with the fact that the recoil system has to complete a full cycle (sending the recoil weight back, then waiting for it to return, etc.) means that trigger spamming isn’t as easy as it would be with, say, a PTW or a high speed Version 2 build.
- The recoil and bolt lock, which are probably the biggest selling points of the system, are a lot of fun, especially in CQB situations when you face oh-shit-i’m-out-need-to-reload-quick situations.
- You’ll need at least three of the proprietary batteries to make it through the day. Obviously this depends on the RoE of your site as well as how trigger happy you are, but I’ve found that I needed at least three fully charged batteries in order to ease my worries of running out of juice midway through the day. The trigger becomes noticeably more sluggish as the battery begins to fade (boo NiMH) so if you want to keep that somewhat snappy trigger, you better have a spare battery in your pack.
Those are the observations off the top of my head with regards to the TM Next-Gen platform – again, in its stock form. Put a little tuning into it (as Juicy has into my TM SCAR-H), and it becomes a bit of a monster…
Much to the chagrin of my wallet, I started a (second) new summer airsoft project: a high speed build. I’m far from the best gunsmith I know, and the prospect of building my own AEG from the ground up scared me a little, but my experience gained from the M110 building inspired me enough to take the plunge. I figured with 5 years in the hobby it was time to learn how to actually build my own guns.
More details after the break.
Dytac has been all about the rails lately, flooding the market with all sorts of SMR variants in all sorts of colors and lengths. To say they got mixed reviews is a bit of an understatement, with most praising their affordability but decrying the build quality, softness of the metals, and overly sharp edges.
I kept all this in mind when Dytac released their long awaited RAHG replica, or the”REM rail” (REM standing for Remington, the manufacturers of the rail, and not the band) as they call it. With Dytac being the only ones in the RAHG replica game (for now), and wanting to give my TM HK416 a bit of an update externally, I decided to take the plunge. Installation and first impressions are after the break.